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The First Man to Travel the World by Bicycle: What Thomas Stevens Wrote About India

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The First Man to Travel the World by Bicycle: What Thomas Stevens Wrote About India

More than a century before travel vlogs, GPS, and modern bicycles, one man dared to do the unthinkable—travel around the world on a bicycle. His name was Thomas Stevens, and in the 1880s, he became the first person in history to cycle across the globe.

Long after Jules Verne’s famous novel Around the World in 80 Days captured readers’ imagination, Stevens turned fiction into reality—without trains or ships as his main transport, but on a heavy, high-wheeled bicycle. His journey took him across continents, cultures, and empires, and his writings offer a fascinating glimpse into the world of the 19th century, including his vivid impressions of India.


Who Was Thomas Stevens?

Thomas Stevens was born in England but moved to the United States in 1871 at the age of 17. Although not a professional athlete, he had a deep passion for cycling—a sport that was then considered a hobby of the elite.

In 1884, Stevens set out on what would become a historic journey. After more than two years and eight months, he returned having cycled nearly 13,500 miles (22,000 km). He later documented his adventures in a book titled Around the World on a Bicycle, first published as magazine articles and then as a book in 1887.


Cycling Across Continents on a Penny-Farthing

Unlike modern bicycles, Stevens rode a penny-farthing—a cycle with a huge front wheel and a tiny rear wheel. It was heavy, unstable, and difficult to ride, especially on rough roads.

He carried minimal belongings:

  • A change of underwear

  • A revolver

  • A poncho that doubled as a tent

  • A spare tire

This minimalist approach made his journey even more extraordinary.


From North America to Europe and Beyond

Stevens began by cycling across North America, traveling from San Francisco to Boston in just five months. His achievement caught the attention of a popular cycling magazine, which offered him sponsorship—allowing him to expand his journey worldwide.

In April 1884, he sailed from Chicago to England, then cycled across Europe, continuing through:

  • Turkey

  • Iran

  • India

  • China

  • Japan

Each region left a strong impression on him, which he carefully recorded.


Fascination with Istanbul and the Ottoman World

Stevens reached Istanbul in the summer of 1885 during the holy month of Ramadan. Staying in the historic Galata district, he described the city as one of the most culturally diverse places in the world.

He wrote vividly about:

  • Lantern-lit streets and coffee houses

  • The mix of fashion, people, and traditions

  • Women smoking in designated areas on ferries and trams

  • Religious ceremonies, including Sufi rituals

He even created a detailed travel guide to Istanbul, listing places like Hagia Sophia, the Grand Bazaar, Galata Tower, and ancient cisterns.


Encounters in Iran and Central Asia

In Tehran, Stevens was hosted by Shah Naser al-Din. He admired the ancient Zoroastrian Towers of Silence, describing them as powerful remnants of an old faith where bodies were exposed to vultures to avoid polluting the earth.

He attempted to enter Afghanistan but was denied access, forcing him to reroute via the Caspian Sea to Baku (modern-day Azerbaijan) and onward to Georgia.


Thomas Stevens’ Impressions of India

Stevens arrived in Calcutta (now Kolkata) by ship, marking the beginning of his journey through India. Despite frequently complaining about the intense heat, his writings show that India left one of the deepest impressions on him.

His View of the Taj Mahal

Stevens was particularly awed by the Taj Mahal, which he described with admiration unlike anything else he had seen during his travels.

According to historians, this moment marked a shift in his perspective. He did not compare the Taj Mahal to any European monument—instead, he treated it as a masterpiece in its own right, showing genuine respect and wonder.

He also wrote that:

  • India’s colors, landscapes, and atmosphere stood out more than any other place

  • Despite discomfort, India was among his favorite destinations


Journey Through East Asia and the End of the Trip

After India, Stevens traveled to:

  • Hong Kong

  • China

  • Japan

His journey ended in Yokohama, Japan, in 1886. He described the Japanese people as “cultured” and “joyful,” noting their strong emphasis on education, even among children.


A Product of His Time: Orientalist Views

While Stevens’ writings are historically valuable, they also reflect the colonial and orientalist mindset of the 19th century. He sometimes used terms that are now considered offensive, describing certain communities as “ignorant” or “uncivilized.”

Scholars note that:

  • His early views were shaped by Western stereotypes

  • His perspective gradually evolved as he traveled further east

  • His admiration for places like India and Japan showed growing openness

Historian Robert Eisenberg points out that Stevens’ encounter with the Taj Mahal marked a turning point in his worldview.


Why Thomas Stevens Still Matters Today

Thomas Stevens became a celebrity in England and the United States, inspiring future adventurers and cyclists. His journey influenced later travelers and helped popularize long-distance cycling, a movement some historians call the beginning of a “bicycle revolution.”

Most importantly, his writings give us insight into:

  • How 19th-century Western travelers viewed the world

  • Early global travel experiences

  • India’s impact on foreign travelers long before modern tourism


Conclusion

Thomas Stevens was not just the first man to cycle around the world—he was a storyteller of a changing world. His journey through India, marked by awe, discomfort, and admiration, remains one of the most intriguing chapters of his travels.

More than 140 years later, his story continues to inspire cyclists, travelers, and readers who dream of seeing the world—one road at a time.

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